day 2, Alma


The management need not worry that we’ll keep lobsters in our room. If they were soft and cuddly it would be a different story. If lobsters liked scratchies and loved to go for walkies we might have smuggled them into the room with us.  We would name them and let them sleep in our bed at night if that’s what they wanted but they don’t.  They want to swim and eat and be left alone, so we will honour them by doing just that.  We will not smuggle them into our room, nor will we eat them.  The lobsters breath a sigh of relief when they see us coming, to be sure.



May well have been their last breath. We’re spending the night in Alma, New Brunswick after a day of driving down from Rivieres-du-Loup, QC. It’s on the south coast, a half-hour drive from the Hopewell rocks. It’s a lobster fishing village and we’re probably the only people around who aren’t interested in partaking of the local delicacy.   The town smells and looks like the maritimes.  I lived in Dartmouth when I was a kid and we used to play down by the shore and climb on the big rocks.  It smelled like the sea.  We used to jump on the heads of the giant kelp that had washed up on shore. We smelled like fish.



Our room has a kitchenette which is great for us. We’re trying to stay away from restaurant food by bringing our cooler with us and cooking our own meals. Along with a pot, a pan and cutlery, we brought our hand-held immersion blender, tupperware containers, nuts, seeds, dried fruit, salt, pepper, our mobile spice device, baggies, tin foil and plates.  We’ve got our butane burner with us in case the rain holds out long enough to fire it up for a hot lunch.  Cooler and freezer bags.  Chopsticks, scissors and the Kasumi.


Kman loves picnics, the novelty of which keeps his mind from drifting to French fries and the other crap he ate way too much of during last year’s road trip. We didn’t plan that one so we were at the mercy of Fifth Wheel and dodgy diner menus. We started to believe that the Alberta meat industry lobbied to have all vegetables removed from menus to protect us from the evil influences of fibre and vitamin A. This time it’s different.



Back to Alma.  It’s a lovely town.  Main industries are tourism, scallop and lobster fishing, it features a dramatically windswept, rocky beach and is situated at the beautiful delta of the Upper Salmon River. The tide changes are dramatic, leaving some of the fishing boats out in the harbour waiting for the water levels to rise so they can dock their boats.  Serves them right, I say.  Make ’em wait.




Hopewell Rocks tomorrow morning and then the night in Port Hawkesbury on the other side of the Canso Channel, the gateway to Cape Breton. Tomorrow the Cabot Trail, and who knows where we’ll be staying.




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